Stay well...

Hello everyone, I hope you’re all doing ok in these sad and unsettling times. 

My weekly posts stopped many weeks ago ahead of our housemove on 13 March, so realistically it will be some time before normal services resume here too.  I will be contacting everyone who has a gift voucher again today, so please don’t worry about that at the moment.  The only thing for all of us now is to follow the advice and guidelines we’ve been given and hopefully by doing that we can get back to some degree of normality soonest. 

Until then, take good care and stay well,

Orna x

Happy New (Classic Blue) Year to you all!

Why Classic Blue you might ask?  Well, it’s all to do with the Pantone Colour Institute’s Colour choice of the Year.  And this year, it’s Classic Blue, a shade reminiscent of the sky at dusk.  In choosing Colour 19-4052 – or Classic Blue to you and me - the Pantone Colour Institute settled on a shade it felt offered reassurance, confidence and connection in an uncertain global environment.  True to its’ name, Classic Blue can be elegant, reflective, regal and restrained but it can be boundless and edgy too.  For those with a warm skin tone, your classic blue will be bright or marine navy.  A French or deep navy will suit a cool skin tone.  

Some argue that blue is the most democratic of colours because it means all things to all people – hence its’ universal appeal.  Consider the calm and serenity of pale blue or the quality and dignity of navy for example.  Not everyone is convinced with the Institute’s preferred hue for 2020 though.  Writing in Dezeen, Michelle Ogundehin thinks that in playing it safe, the Institute has failed to pick up on the dominant narrative elsewhere – the colour green, associated with optimism, rebirth, regrowth and the wider ecological story that’s top of the cultural agenda right now. 

What do you think?  Planting our collective (green) feet and a lot of trees firmly on the ground… or having our collective (blue) heads in the clouds?!

Credits:  ‘Pantone chooses a classic for its 2020 Colour of the Year’ by Kirsi Goldynia for CNN Style, 5 December 2019; ‘In choosing blue, Pantone has missed the mark once more’ by Michelle Ogundehin for Dezeen, 10 December 2019;  Hello December 2019/January 2020/February 2020 and, Vogue November 2019. 

Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams at the V&A

I was fortunate to get a ticket to see this most wonderful retrospective exhibition in London this month.  And what an enormous treat it was.  Tracing the history and impact of one of the 20th century’s most pre-eminent fashion designers, the Dior exhibition spans the years from 1947 to the present day.  His ‘New Look’ – a groundbreaking and radical departure from the staid ‘make do and mend’ styles of the war - ushered in a new silhouette, inviting controversy and acclaim in equal measure.  With its’ nipped-in waist and ankle length skirt produced from 20 yards of fabric, the ‘New Look’ marked the return of Paris to centre of the fashion world.  Christian Dior had arrived. 

It is easy to understand why his work had such an immediate impact because the designs he produced and the fabrics he used were the epitome of glamour, of elegance and of luxury.  As Will Gompertz said, they were ‘a wonder to behold’. 

Featuring over 500 objects in a series of themed galleries (including Dior’s love of all things London and UK related), the exhibition also displays the work of the 6 creative directors employed by the fashion house since 1957.  Each one has added his or her own distinctive interpretation to the mix, recreating the creativity of Dior for successive generations.  And what a rich mix it is.  In the Designers for Dior gallery we see Yves Saint Laurent’s youthful and radical approach to creating couture inspired by the street;  Marc Bohan’s mastery of cut and accent;  Gianfranco Ferre’s dramatic and structured silhouettes using fine fabrics and embellishment;  Raf Simons’ minimalism with touches of the romanticism and femininity much favoured by Dior;  John Galliano’s spectacular and theatrical pieces and now, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s feminist reinvention to ensure that the needs of the contemporary woman are front and centre of her work.  Her mix of modern tailoring and ethereal romantic evening gowns reimagine Dior’s idea of femininity. 

For me, the breathtaking array of gowns displayed in stunning sets created by Nathalie Criniere stole the show, alongside the gallery dedicated to the House of Dior ateliers.  The latter gallery demonstrated how the seamstresses or ‘petite mains’ turned all of the ideas into reality.  Perfection. 

The exhibition has been extended to Sunday 1 September, so if you find yourself in London between now and then – and I appreciate that you don’t have much time now - there are a small number of timed entry tickets available to purchase at 10am daily from the Grand Entrance. 

Credits: Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, V&A August 2019; Christian Dior, Oriole Cullen and Connie Karol Burks, V&A Publishing 2019; Christian Dior, Designer of Dreams review: Golden age emerges as an era defined by true freedom by Karen Dacre, Evening Standard 31 January 2019; Dior: Designer of Dreams at the V&A review by Will Gompertz for BBC online 2 February 2019; Dior at the V&A review: Breathtaking retrospective that at times does not tell the whole story by Harriet Hall, The Independent 31 January 2019 and, Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams review by Rosemary Waugh for TimeOut London, March 2019.

Body Beautiful - Diversity on the catwalk

This week I spent time at an exhibition called Body Beautiful – Diversity on the catwalk at the National Museum of Scotland on Chamber Street, Edinburgh.  It’s small and perfectly formed and looks at how the fashion industry has been challenged to champion alternative ideals of what beauty means on the catwalk…in advertising…in editorials…and behind the camera.  Exploring the themes of disability, race, gender, size and age it gives a voice to those who are inspiring and driving change and, celebrates the more inclusive and diverse catwalks that are being created as a result.    

The exhibition is the first of its’ kind to examine ways in which the fashion industry is addressing body positivity and Georgina Ripley, Senior Curator of Modern & Contemporary Fashion & Textiles at the museum believes that with attitudes shifting, this is a particularly exciting time in fashion.   

In planning the exhibition, the team consulted a broad range of voices and experts in the field of diversity.  Sinead Burke, Irish academic, writer, influencer, activist and broadcaster (popular for her 2017 TED talk on why design should include everyone), fashion commentator Caryn Franklyn, model Eunice Olumide and public speaker Jamie Windust all played a part. 

Designs by Ferragamo, Pam Hogg, Ashish, Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood are brought to life through film, photography, fashion publications and catwalk ensembles, and the exhibition also draws on the work of the next generation of young fashion design students from Edinburgh College of Art’s Diversity Network.  Bespoke mannequins (including two cast from life) were also commissioned to reflect the range of people represented in the exhibition.

With more than 1.3bn disabled people living in the world they have long been ignored by the fashion industry yet greater visibility of disabled people in fashion is essential if attitudes are to be changed.  It was surely a sign of progress when last summer Aaron Philip became the first Black, trans, disabled model to sign for a major modelling agency. 

Despite all but one of the 10 most booked models for New York’s Autumn 2019 Fashion Week being Black, Asian or Ethnic Minority, the corresponding European shows lag when it comes to racial diversity.  The appointment of Edward Enninful as Vogue’s first Black editor in 2017 was a landmark, Enninful being an outspoken advocate for diversity in fashion. 

When in 1984 Jean Paul Gaultier put his male models in skirts on the catwalk, several fashion editors reportedly walked out.  In contrast, and even with fashion brands such as Gypsy Sport, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY and Art School putting gender non-conforming models at their forefront of their shows this Spring, the LGBTQIA+ community continues to ask for more meaningful representation in fashion of trans, non-binary, gender fluid and queer identities. 

The fashion world is slowly embracing a more diverse range of female shapes and sizes, with Ashley Graham becoming the first curve model to feature on Forbes’ list of the world’s highest-paid models in 2017.  Of the 50 curve models to feature in the Autumn 2019 shows, only 6 were for European brands – and that’s in spite of the fact that the average British woman wears a size 16.  Additionally, conversations about body positivity stubbornly focus on women only. 

And finally, onto age… even though the world’s fastest growing consumer group is aged over 60, they remain unrepresented on the catwalk.  Style blogs and social media influencers such as Advanced Style and Maye Musk are shifting attitudes to ageless style, whilst the signing of Iris Apfel at the age of 97 to IMG Models shows there’s hope for us all!

Credits: 

Advanced Style (2012) by Ari Seth Cohen, Alamy stock photos, ‘At the National Museum of Scotland Body Beautiful – Diversity on the Catwalk’ by Phyllis Stephen The Edinburgh Reporter 23 May 2019, The Lady 27 April 2018 and, National Museum of Scotland Chambers Street June 2019.  

Queen of Prints at the Dovecot, Edinburgh

Calling all pattern lovers, the work of Orla Kiely (also known as the Queen of Prints) is currently being exhibited at the Dovecot Studios in Edinburgh, and goodness what a treat her work is to behold.  Inspired by the exuberance of the 1960s and a love of Irish and Scandinavian architecture, Kiely’s designs have grown from humble beginnings in the 1990s to being instantly recognisable across the globe.  With unique access to the company archives, you too can enjoy a joyful and privileged insight into a life dedicated to print. 

From the original paper sketches for the designer’s trademark ‘Stem’ graphic born in the 1990s to the development of the iconic ‘Pear’ and ‘Flower’ designs – which all feature on everything from clothing to the much-loved handbag, the exhibition emphasises the role of ornament and colour in our everyday lives.

The fashion side of the business launched in 2003 and went on to produce four ready-to-wear collections every year, with each collection featuring signature coats, dresses and knitwear linked through colour and print.  I loved the ‘Flower Explosion’ dress in greens, pinks and purples.  Another favourite was the wool crepe smock dress in ‘Cute as a Fox’ print or the dirndl dress in ‘Around the World’ print.  One whole wall in the exhibition space features row upon row of fabulously colourful bag after fabulously colourful bag.  Swoon!  In the final room of the exhibition prepare to be amazed by the giant-sized dresses hung from the rafters, designed to make us feel like children as we wander Alice in Wonderland style.  And in wall-mounted cabinets in the same room, prepare to see the exact same dresses in miniature.  Very cute! 

Sadly, the Orla Kiely fashion label went into liquidation in Autumn 2018, but distributors continue to sell accessories and homewares through the home and design licensing arm of the business.  Think of the exhibition as being a retrospective and a celebration – but definitely not a full stop. 

Catch Orla Kiely:  A Life in Pattern at the Dovecot Tapestry Studios on Infirmary Street in Edinburgh ‘til 29 June. 

Credits:  ‘A Life in Pattern’ by Orla Kiely - Conran Octopus Ltd 2018, Artfund and Craft Scotland February 2019, Dovecot Tapestry Studios Edinburgh February 2019, The Edinburgh Reporter 6 February 2019 and, The Herald 5 February 2019. 

The wedding season has arrived... not sure what to wear? Read on...

Spring has sprung – we hope.  And with it, the official start to the wedding season.  But before you rush out and spend a lot of money on what might be the highlight of your social calendar this year, think again.  I can still remember the advice that I and my fellow trainee Colour and Style Consultants were given many years ago, and it’s as relevant now as it was then…spend your money where you spend your time.  Another way of thinking about it is to buy better, perhaps investing in longevity and ethical brands…in other words, buy something you’ll wear again.

But on the assumption that you’re going to invest in something new, here are a couple of pointers to get you started.  These pointers can just as easily be applied to any special occasion that you are planning for, be that a graduation or a summer race meeting. 

Firstly, colour.  It’s undoubtedly the easiest way to incorporate some of the trends of the season into your wardrobe, energising it in the process.  This season we’ve seen plenty of the happy and cheery tutti frutti shades of yellows, greens and reds.  We’ve also seen much of the occasion wear colour of the season - pink.  For those of you who want to wear what the internationally sleek will be wearing (and in the Autumn too incidentally), your choice will be beige, head to toe.  The alternative of course is to go for a classic colour and then dress up or down according to the occasion you find yourself going to.  Navy is always a good choice but choose your accessories well and let them do the talking.  If you aim to keep the core elements of your outfit relatively simple, you can use different accessories afterwards to dress up or down according to the occasion. 

Dresses are a favourite choice of outfit when it comes to weddings, and if you’re to invest in only one dress style this season, make sure that it has ruching.  Ruching is a romantic take on body-con and is much more forgiving.  That’s because carefully positioned ruching can add curves to slimmer frames, and at the same time stretch in all the right places for those with curves.  A spring wedding wouldn’t be complete without a floral printed dress or two, but if flowers are not for you, you could always try polka-dots or a bold block colour instead.  Whatever style, pattern or colour you choose though don’t forget that your gorgeous dress can be accessorised with a pashmina or a shawl.  Likewise, a chic coat worn over your dress or, a dress with sleeves will keep you warm and looking the epitome of elegance at the same time.  The choice is yours.

A current and popular alternative to the much-favoured dress is the slip skirt, which in itself is an alternative to the pleated skirt (they just aren’t for everyone).  A gorgeous swishy slip skirt in satin, teamed with a plain vest top and an elegant jacket or oversized blazer will sit the right side of frippery.  And afterwards you can always combine your new slip skirt with a cashmere jumper or roll neck and boots on cooler days, or with a t-shirt and sneakers on warmer ones.  Tres chic.

Finally, if you’d prefer to wear something other than a skirt or a dress, why not consider investing in a jumpsuit?  With jumpsuits combining the femininity of a maxi dress with the sharpness of trousers, it’s no wonder that they’ve become a wardrobe staple.  There are many options out there to choose from so pick the cut and colour that suits you and add heels and accessories for your special occasion.  Your jumpsuit investment can work hard for you afterwards too if you team it with sneakers or ankle boots for a more casual look. 

One quick word on shoes, as some believe that you should build your outfit by starting with your shoes.  I think that’s a personal choice myself, but if you do want to buy into the Spring 2019 shoe shape…be square.

Happy shopping!

Put a bow on it...!

The oh so whimsical bow is to be found everywhere this season - from the catwalk to the red carpet. Bows have come big, bold and bouncing, and have been spotted adorning frocks, decorating shoes and enhancing hair. At Valentino they have exploded from the busts of taffeta gowns, in the hair they have come vivid in red; at Balmain and Givenchy they have come in the form of dazzling back details on opulent gowns… in the case of Givenchy as couture backpacks! Over at Erdem and Emilia Wickstead, pastel coloured bows featured as hair accessories, whilst at Miu Miu and Prada we saw bow-adorned headbands.

If you think that bows are best suited to evening wear, think again! There are many more ways of making this most feminine and romantic of trends work for you right now…

* You could embrace the 70s revival and choose a pussy bow blouse for the office
* You could choose a pretty summer blouse or dress, or even a piece of jewellery adorned with bows
* If you prefer something more subtle, embrace this pretty trend through your accessories, whether on bags, belts, shoes… or in your hair
* If you fancy more of a grungy look, how about trying a pretty dress with bows, only this time team it with a pair of hiking boots, as seen at Preen.

Writing in Vogue back in October 2018, Ellie Pithers suggested that while some of us might choose to decorate our days with perfume or diamonds, a supersized bow (preferably pinned to the shoulder blades and left to trail majestically in our wake) might be just the trick for this Spring and Summer. Are you going to try it?

Credits: Evening Standard 21 January 2019, Grazia 25 February 2019, Harpers Bazaar, 2 January and 11 February 2019, Hello Fashion Monthly March 2019, Marie Claire February 2019, Vogue, 4 October 2018 and March edition 2019 and, Who What Wear 14 January 2019.

The World has lost an icon - Karl Lagerfeld, House of Chanel

For someone who said "I have nothing to say. I'm actually trying to make sure I won't be remembered", it's hard to imagine that Karl Lagerfeld will ever be forgotten.

Credited with reinventing Chanel and ensuring that it remained one of the most recognised brands worldwide, the oft controversial fashion designer worked on many of the trends that we are now seeing for Spring Summer 2019.

Credits: Hello Fashion Monthly March 2019, Marie Claire February 2019, The Daily Telegraph 20 February 2019, The Guardian 20 February 2019 and Vogue March 2019.

Pleats Please...

Taking inspiration from Issey Miyake's Pleats Please collections back in the 1990s, pleats continue to exert their influence on the fashion trends for Spring Summer 2019.

For those unfamiliar with such terms as accordion, box, kick, knife or sunray, they are a way of giving clothes extra volume and that oh so delightful... swish. The catwalks were awash with exaggerated shoulders, billowing sleeves and more intricate pleats than we've seen before. The result? A silhouette that contracts and moves with the wearer, an origami-like appearance, and when combined with lighter and airier fabrics for summer dresses and skirts we're sure to see lots more of this delightful combination.

And for added interest, some designers used vertical pleats to add large circular shoulders to their garments, creating shell-like sleeves in the process. Very eye-catching.

Credits: Boden (February 2019), Elle (February 2019), Hello Fashion Monthly (March 2019) and, Marie Claire (February 2019).

The one-piece wonder making a welcome comeback...

Utilitarian designs look set to continue making big fashion statements this Spring. So could it be that the one-time protective garment for manual labour, the humble boiler suit, is set to become the 'it' item of the season? It's not difficult to see how it could... comfortable and stylish, the boiler suit (or jumpsuit) is easy to wear, it's versatile and no matter what your body shape there's one out there to suit you.

So how might you style yours?

... Pair with trainers for the school run
... Match with a casual jacket and trainers to meet your friends for lunch, or head out with the dog for a walk. For extra warmth, layers with thermals or a polo neck underneath
... Add ankle boots and a trench coat, or a blazer and a pop of colour with shoes or a bag, and you're set for any meeting that comes your way at work
... Consider adding a belt, one or two simple accessories and a pair of heels, and you're ready for cocktails after work
... Choose a style in a finer fabric, add a pair of drop earrings and heels, and hey presto you have a super stylish wedding outfit that you'll be able to wear again afterwards

Take a look at some of my photos to see the variation on offer. Pick the cut and colour that suits you best and prepare to make this go-to wardrobe solution work for you!

‘A living room for the city’…the V&A’s new northern outpost

Earlier this month I enjoyed my first visit to the now officially opened V&A in Juteopolis, aka Dundee! In bringing nature and architecture together, architect Kengo Kuma has created a new 'living room for the city', and what a fantastic living room it is.

Once inside I enjoyed the Scottish Design Galleries where Scotland's design story is explored, historically and today. I loved seeing the Hardy Amies suit made with fabric designed by Bernat Klein - alongside a fantastic range of Aspen furnishing fabrics, also designed by Klein in the 1960s. Another favourite was the Vivienne Westwood designed Harris Tweed suit, which on first glance looked conventional. Looking a bit closer though you could see how Westwood had turned convention on its' head by adding baggy trousers and a full shawl collar to the waistcoat.

Next I headed to the 'Ocean Liners: Speed and Style' exhibition, which might float your boat until 24 February?! The exhibition is an evocative telling of an age of such glamour and style, it is a feast for the senses. Many of the ocean liners featured, including the Queen Mary, Normandie, QE2 and Titanic were worlds in themselves and wow - the posters, paintings, photos, wall panels, furniture and fashion showed us what life on board these floating palaces was like, at least for those who travelled first class.

Take a look at some of my photos below, featuring first the Clydebank-built Queen Mary completing her maiden voyage into New York in 1936. See also some wonderful fashion designs by Hardy Amies, Bernat Klein, Vivienne Westwood, Silveto, Goyard luggage, Christian Dior, Emilio Pucci, Lanvin and Poiret.

The last photo in my blog features (in the background) the still of a film installation in the exhibition called the 'Grande Descente'. These dramatic staircases for social display enabled women to make a glamorous entrance into the dining room in the evening, and were a feature of the first class spaces of ocean liners by the 1910s... no pressure there then! Enjoy.

Credits - all photographs from the exhibitions and the exhibition catalogue.

The Power of Colour

Photos of the stunning super blood wolf moon earlier in the year got me thinking about the uplifting effect the colour red, amongst others, can have on us.

Writing in her book 'How Not to Wear Black', Jules Standish tells us that our spirits are lifted when we see the first signs of Spring, whether that be through the bright yellow daffodils we spot in the garden, or in the bright green shoots that we spot on tree branches. Either way our reaction to seeing bright, harmonious and inspiring things lifts our mood, or in keeping with the marvel of the moment Marie Kondo, sparks joy! Standish says that seeing ourselves wearing more stimulating colours and prints can trigger a neurological response, transforming our appearance and our personality, and the impact we have on those around us.

The catwalks have been awash with riotous colours for the season ahead - from oranges, reds, pinks and violets, to yellows, blues and greens. And before long we can look forward to seeing more of them on the high street. Shades of oranges and pinks together make for a happy and energy-giving combination, whilst reds and pinks, associated with femininity and affection can also be empowering.

What do you have in your wardrobe that brings you joy? Does a pop of colour lift your mood? And what colour combinations make you look and feel good at the same time?

Credits - Elle, Hello Fashion Monthly and Marie Claire, all February 2019 editions.

Liberty at the Dovecot, Edinburgh

In January I spent a couple of very happy hours at the Dovecot Gallery in Edinburgh enjoying the fantastic (but sadly now finished) retrospective exhibition Liberty Art Fabrics & Fashion. The exhibition showcased an incredible range of clothing and accessories inspired by Liberty fabric, highlighting the huge impact that Liberty has had on fashion for 143 years! The innovative Liberty has remained an originator of key trends and design revivals from garments inspired by the Far East as far back as the early 19th century through to the iconic designs of the Swinging Sixties and on into the 21st century with botanical inspired prints. Many successful collaborations from Mary Quant and Yves Saint Laurent to more contemporary designers like Vivienne Westwood and Richard Quinn were highlighted... Scottish designers Marion Donaldson and Jean Muir too. Writing in Apollo, The International Art Magazine back in September, Robyne Calvert reminded us that Liberty fabrics and garments 'still have something to teach us about the significance of history in their designs - and of the power of colours, the delight of ornament, and the individuality of their wearers'. Another reviewer spoke of the 'dynamic energy to the brand that so many lesser labels lack, a dynamism that keeps it moving forwards, at the forefront of its own very particular brand of fashion, while still producing the classic fabrics, scarves and dressing gowns so beloved of so many customers'. I particularly loved the collaborations between Liberty and the French ready-to-wear clothing, perfume and accessories brand Cacharel, and the British shoe manufacturer and retailer Clarks. New shoes anyone...?!

Pantone's 2019 Colour of the Year... Living Coral

After Pantone's 2018 Colour of the Year Ultra Violet, comes Pantone's 2019 Colour of the Year... Living Coral. Pantone tells us that 'Living Coral embraces us with warmth and nourishment to provide comfort and buoyancy in our continually shifting environment... sociable and spirited, the engaging nature of Living Coral welcomes and encourages light-hearted activity'. Back in December, when Pantone's choice was announced, Vogue told us that Coral was a 'cool-girl lipstick colour... the ideal pop against light blue or teal... jiving well with gold jewellery and a big straw bag'. What do you think? Do you like the colour Coral? What does it remind you of? And perhaps more importantly... can you wear it or not?!

Coral is undoubtedly a warm shade, so for those of you with a warm skin tone it will look fab. Fear not if you have a cool skin tone though because there are many Living Coral equivalents that you'll look just as fantastic in - shades like Rose, Fuchsia or Shocking Pink. You might choose to take style notes from some of the stars who have already chosen to dress head-to-toe in Coral (Gigi Hadid and Jennifer Lopez spring to mind), but if you want to stick to a pop of this year's colour instead, why not choose a statement accessory like a bold piece of jewellery, a pair of sunglasses or even a Coral bag to bring your outfit together? Either way, prepare to see lots of Living Coral this Spring and beyond.

And just to get you started, here's a photo of one of the windows of Copenhagen's Illum department store just before Christmas 2018... plenty of shades of Living Coral there!